Introduction My earliest recollection of the Morning Glory was probably an article in Skysailor (now Soaring Australia) published after the first non-powered hang glider pilots flew it. That was ten years ago when CMac, Al Giles, Billo and PK made their first pilgrimage to Burketown. I saw my first picture of a Morning Glory on a website called Dropbears.com. The pages at; http://www.dropbears.com/brough/ had been authored by a powered sailplane pilot who had been flying the wave since 1989. This site is an excellent source of information and images of the Morning Glory and a lot more. My interest and subsequent reading of all the Morning Glory pages at Dropbears was the result of finding out that Billo and Al were organising a 2005 expedition to Burketown in memory of CMac. Apparently there was a spare seat. As it turned out this was all part of Billo's cunning plan to get me to drive his second car and to video the event. I had been singled out has having some sort of a knack with a video camera and an editing suite after the success of the Dalby DVD. I just had to convince my wife and family of the value of this once in a lifetime experience. This was not going to be easy since there was no guarantee that the Morning Glory would even come in and JOD's was responsible for the trip planning and his itinerary had us travelling some 8,000 kms. This alone would cost a fortune in petrol. To my delight and the envy of my work mates my wife, Tanya, was very understanding. She would have to run the house and look after the kids for four weeks without me so I knew the sacrifice she was making. None of us wanted to think about the fact that we may not even see a Morning Glory but we all had to sign on knowing that our trip could be morning gloryless. At least we would get to see parts of Australia that most people don't. We were to drive from Newcastle, in NSW, to Hawker in SA. Here we could fly Wilpena Pound. Then we would get on the Birdsville Track to take us through to QLD. From there it was up to Burketown, our final destination in the tropical north of Australia. Day 1 (Sat. 17/9/05) Jason arrived to pick me up at 6am and my sleepy family watched in amazement through the front window as we managed to fit all my gear into an already overloaded Subaru. This was Billo's second car that he had bought for the trip to tow his Buzzard trike. In the weeks leading up to our departure Billo put in a lot of work so that we would be able to have two trikes in Burketown and thus have the best chance of getting on the wave. Jason and I made our way to Rutherford where we had agreed to meet the others. We fuelled up, zero the trip odometers and took a group shot. Looking back on the shot now there was our car, Billo's Subaru. We nicknamed her Christine because she had a mind of her own and communicated to us with beeps and flashes when we left a door open or the keys in the ignition. JOD's car was a much newer Subaru Forester which he shared with Al Giles(Dr Death). He had the luxuries of aircon and a fridge. Billo, Greg and Young Shane were in Billo's Hilux. The Hilux was towing the XTC582 trike and Christine was towing the Buzzard. Someone yelled; "let's hit the road!" and one by one the cars wheeled away from the petrol pumps and onto the highway. Finally we were on the trip of a lifetime. Well the others were at least. Christine had a flat battery. I took one photo of Jason and Al jump-starting the car and that was to be the last I saw of my camera until Burketown. The car was packed so tight it wasn't till then that I was able to find the bag into which I had placed it. The day started off dizzely then cleared to blue skies but a strong westerly headwind. We made our way west in high spirits. Jason and I needed another jump start in Merriwa and by Gilgandra Jason had had enough and found an auto electrician who installed a new battery. The Hilux crew took the wrong road and ended up in Dubbo, and we did not meet up again until Nyngan. It was quite a distance between Meriwa and Nyngan and as we speed across the plains under beautiful cloud streets I was impressed by the thought of Scott Barrett's flight from Denman to Nyngan, a valley record at 340kms. Selmsey and Shane had left the day before to do a flooring job in Moree. Shane worked as a labourer to cover his petrol costs for the trip. We found them in the pub with the longest verandah in Cobar. Come to think of it we always found Selmsey in a pub. We stocked up with beer and food and headed out of town to make camp half way between Cobar and Wilcania in a rest stop. Day 2 (Sun. 18/9/05) We awoke to a beautiful moon set and sun rise before making our way to Broken Hill. The McDonalds billboard on the outskirts of town was an indication that even though we had travelled so far we still hadn't got far enough away from the city. We only stopped to get petrol and Selmsey made his way to the wreckers to find a radiator. He'd had enough of driving with the heater on to keep the engine cool. Broken Hill was the point at which we headed south towards SA. The roads were now getting longer and straighter and the scenery on each side more sparse. Flat for as far as you could see. We turned north at Peterborough, back into the hills again. Selmsey and Shane headed to Port Augusta to continue the search for a radiator having come up with nothing in Broken Hill. while the rest of us went on to Hawker. We got petrol and more supplies and turned our noses up at the expensive fly nets that you put over your hat. Stocked up with food and beer, we headed into the National Park at Wilpena pound, stopping here and there to pick up firewood. While you are allowed to have a fire in the camping area there is no firewood. We shared the campsite at Arkaroola with two or three busloads of school kids. The showers were hot but there was a line up and quite a wait as each kid thought he was back home. This concept was compounded but the fact that back at the buses there was a large screen set up with a DVD playing. It seemed a bit strange but we had a nice fire and cook up. Still a ways to go to get away from the city. Day 3 (Mon. 19/9/05) Billo gave us all joy flights over the pound until the thermals picked up. Then we made our way to Lyndhurst but not before returning to Hawker and buying up all the fly nets. No one told me about the flies. Unbelievable. The convoy had split up with JOD and Selmsey taking the more scenic route while we followed Billo on the bitumen. We were all to meet for a pie at Copley but the others couldn't wait for us and left a message with one of the local kids whom we ignored as he ran down the street waving at us as we passed through the sleepy town at sunset. We found the others in Lyndhurst, in the pub. This was to be the point at which Billo would start flying the XTC-582 over the dirt roads but he didn't communicate this very well to the others and since they did not want to stay in Lyndhurst and Billo did not want to break up the group we made our way to Maree on the dirt. JOD and Al stayed in the Marree pub while the rest of us camped by the old Ghan railway line at the end of town. Jason and Billo were getting quite good now at cooking a "mash-up" in the Trangias. I was suffering from a head cold and Jason was getting over a sore throat so it was an early night. Besides I was to be first passenger in the trike flying the Birdsville track the next day. Day 4 (Tue. 20/9/05) The G forces pressed me back into the seat as Billo increased the throttle and pushed the bar out to bank the trike up and around as we left the dirt road below and circled back over our camp. We buzzed the pub and started up the Birdsville Track. Unfortunately Billo had mixed emotions as we made our way through the beautiful morning air. Here we were in this incredible setting but the XTC-582 had taken a beating on the dirt road in spite of the beer cartons we had taped onto the spats. There were chips in the fibreglass and dints in the rear stays and in the Rotax radiator. The view below us was like a moonscape with the polished red stones of the stony dessert creating a mirage effect. I was still suffering from the head cold and could not stop my nose from running. Once the sponge microphone cover was saturated with it the snot started to whip up inside the full face helmet in the eddy currents. We were heading for Cooper's Creek to pick up the next passenger. I assumed that Billo would have loaded the way points into his GPS but when we landed at a homestead and he waved his GPS at the owner saying; "I have a GPS so I know exactly where I am . . . lost", I knew that he hadn't. We had landed at a homestead called Etaduna and we were treated to cups of tea and as much vegemite toast as we could eat. They had a broadband internet connection and they got us the weather report before we launched again. We circled up above the homestead while the men went back to work and the kids waved goodbye. Billo made the comment over the radio that his windscreen needed a wipe. He'd put my helmet on by mistake and I prayed that he did not get my cold as this could jeopardise the towing in Burketown. The going was rougher now and the XTC-582 was starting to burn more fuel. We'd missed Coopers Creek and the last radio contact we had with the others was to say that they had set up Selmsey's 220 Fun and were trying to fly a solitary hill in the Stony Dessert. We pushed on until we saw a airstrip where we landed again. This time it was glasses of cold water. It was so dry. We were at Mulka station and Billo refused their kind offers of fuel as he knew that landowners on the track do not have much to spare. Anyway we weren't far from the Mungaranie Pub. We landed at Mungaranie and taxied up the road to the petrol bowsers to fill up. It was my shout at the bar and I can tell you the first two stubbies did not even touch the sides and the egg and bacon roll was the best I think I've ever had. The others soon arrived but the track had taken its toll and we set about fixing the damage to trailers and cars. After that we grabbed some beers and jumped in the natural hot spring pool before heading off to find a campsite and a place for Billo to land. That night we built a big fire and JOD invited us to dine in his four billion star restaurant. The chef's special was jaffles and, thanks to JOD and Splint's efficiency, everyone had an elegant sufficiency in quick time. The night sky was amazing as we watched satellites speed through the Milky Way. This was to be the first night that I rolled out a swag instead of a tent and slept by the fire. We were far enough away from the city now. Day 5 (Wed. 21/9/05) It was Jason's turn in the trike. I filmed the XTC-582 as Billo warmed the oil in the orange glow of a rising sun and then after he took-off he climbed and banked in a 180 degree turn to fly across the setting moon. I now had Christine to myself and we headed up the track with Greg and Shane in the Hilux not far behind. Although there were patches of water on the track it was very dry and not really a problem to drive on but I would not to do it in the wet. I was able to get some good footage of the other cars on the track and Selmsey found a sand hill to soar. We found the trike parked under a tree in the centre of Birdsville with two sleepy heads lying in its shade. We were all dry so we hit the Birdsville pub. More good tasting beer and a bar full of hats stuck to the rafters. Shane was next passenger in the trike and flew with Billo to a private airstrip just short of Bedourie. Billo was not happy to leave the trike there uninvited and unannounced, so Shane joined the ground crew and we set off to find a suitable landing and campsite. Billo took-off into the afternoon sun. As the light faded the dust from JOD's car ahead seemed to suddenly lie flat on the ground like a fog as the catabatic conditions took effect. Billo was on the radio complaining about heavy sink while Al was trying to find a patch of road that did not have a SWER line running next to it. He found one, a flat stretch of road between two crests with sand hills on either side. We parked cars on the crests at each end and light the road with our headlights. The drone of the XTC-582's Rotax overhead broke the eerie quite we were listening to as we manned our stations. We were all concerned for Billo's safety, night landings can be dangerous. I watched as the lights from Christine blinked. Not because we'd left the door open but because Billo had just guided the trike over her roof-top and onto the road for a perfect landing. He rolled the trike off to the side of the road and that was our camp for the night. Day 6 (Thu. 22/9/05) Billo was up with cockatoos and flying away against another sunrise and moon set. We met him at Boulia where we put the Trike back on the trailer. It would be bitumen from here to Gregory Downs just 120km short of Burketown. We camped in another rest stop just past Mt Isa and as my sinuses started to clear Billo started blowing his nose and chanting the mantra, "Splint must die!" Day 7 (Fri. 23/9/05) We made our way to Cloncurry to get final supplies for Burketown where everything would be more expensive. Up until now, as per Billo's instructions, we had been getting right off to the side of the road for the road trains. To my surprise they just ploughed past us, not even attempting to move over. When it was my turn behind the wheel I was like the horse bolting for the home gate as I lead the convoy up through the narrow bitumen roads with very course gravel on the shoulders. I saw the road train ahead but at the speed I was doing I had not left myself enough distance to stop before the road rounded a corner and the shoulder disappeared on crest. I pulled up but I had left us all only half off the road. This road train will have to move over now, I thought. I found out why they don't. We were showed with rocks and dust as the road train hit the shoulder on the other side. Every windscreen was either chipped or cracked. It was another long day of driving but our reward was a swim in the river at Gregory Downs. A tranquil oasis and the first time some of us had washed in a week. I grabbed the esky from the car and dropped it on the riverbank. The beer tasted good but unfortunately we indulged for a little too long and by the time Billo was back in the air he only had enough light to make it to Brookdale, a homestead about 40km short of Burketown. Billo put the Cruise to sleep under the verandah and we picked him up and continued on to Burketown where Donny was waiting for us at the Burketown pub. He'd flown in two days before. We kept the celebrations brief as tomorrow morning we would be up at 4am to fly the Morning Glory. Most of us threw out a swag for our first night in Burketown. We were up at 4:30AM and out on the salt flats. We were running out car towing ropes and marking their position with a GPS. There was no morning glory but that did not stop Selmsey from setting up and getting in some practice. Selsmey was determined that when the morning glory did come through that not only would he be ready but so would Shane. Selmsey and Shane were the car tow team and they had recruited Greg to drive for them. Shane had never towed before and Greg had never been a driver but Selmsey is a good teacher. There are about 25 kilometres of salt flats spread out between Burketown and the ocean. It's perfect for car towing. There are some small sand hills and some muddy patches but while you're on tow it's easy to see and direct the driver. By mid morning we were back in town and after seven days on the road it was a relief to set up camp in the caravan park knowing we would not be breaking it down for another 7 days. By midday we were done and flat out in the shade sleeping. When we awoke at 2 PM it was "Beer O'clock", dew to Burketown's "Beer Light Saving". We moved from mattress to deck chair. Dinner was a mash up around the gas stove, a Barra Burger at the Take-Away Van or a meal in the pub. Then it was off to bed and so the gruelling Burketown routine begins again. Like just about everyone else, I usually woke an hour or so before the alarm and could not get back to sleep. By the third day this had began to take its toll and I just wanted to roll over and go back to sleep. Before I did, I put my hand outside the tent and ran my fingers through the grass. My hand came back wet with dew. I hoped out of the tent and Donny called me over to check out the wet footpath beneath the gutter-less eves on the toilet block. Dew was dripping off the hang gliders on the cars and everyone was a little more excited today. Dew is the telltale sign that there is enough moisture around for a Morning Glory to form. Out on the salt flats there was no sunrise. It was blocked by a Morning Glory. The aero tow crew was ready and waiting for the trikes to arrive. When they did Jason was first away behind Billo but JOD had to wait while Al tried frantically to connect the cable through the crankshaft to the makeshift multigrip release mechanism on the Buzzard. Billo returned after Jason broke a weak link without enough height to reach the wave. JOD jumped on the dolly and Billo yanked him into the air while Donny unclipped and went over to help Al. I endured two frustrating release malfunctions behind the Buzzard before Billo returned and announced that the wave had stalled off the coast and would probably soon dissipate. To make matters worse Al discovered that the Buzzard's lack of spats on the wheels had allowed the salt and mud to flick up into the props and they were starting to disintegrate. The wave was still a long way off and JOD had also fallen short of it and landed in a boggy area some distance from the car tow team. Billo suggested I get in the back of the trike while we fly out to the wave and at least get some video of it. I grabbed Billo's camera and headed for the trike. I was surprised at the look of disbelief on Donny's face as I jumped in the back seat. It was a long flight out to the wave but with every minute it became more and more awesome. No picture or video can do it justice. You have to be there to fully comprehend the size and majesty of "The Wave". It was hard to believe what I was seeing as I slowly panned from one horizon to the other along this magnificent mountain range of cotton wool. When we arrived on the wave Billo throttled back the engine and pointed to the climb rate. Finally I was able to put the camera in my lap and sit back in the seat to try and take it all in. I almost couldn't One soon runs out of superlatives when it comes to the Morning Glory. It's just as well I have a thesaurus. surreal [adjective] having the qualities of surrealism; bizarre, unusual, weird, strange, freakish, unearthly, uncanny, dreamlike, phantasmagorical: a surreal mix of fact and fantasy, a backdrop of surreal images. phantasmagoria [noun] a sequence of real or imaginary images like that seen in a dream : what happened next was a phantasmagoria of horror and mystery. Derivatives: phantasmagoric [adjective], phantasmagorical [adjective] majestic [adjective] having or showing impressive beauty or dignity : watching majestic eagles soar along the Mississippi. unreal [adjective] so strange as to appear imaginary; not seeming real : in the half-light the tiny cottages seemed unreal. Take your pick, they all apply. But I guess they still don't convey what it was really like. As Billo and I floated around on the wave I tried to think of how I would describe this experience. The only thing I could relate it to was paddling out in the biggest surf I'd ever ridden. It's actually not that scary because the wave never breaks and you don't have to take off on it and fall down the face. But the wave is many, many times bigger than the biggest surf anyone has ever ridden. This is where, for me anyway, the gravity of what we were doing sunk in. Flying the Morning Glory in a hang glider is where tow surfing was not that many years ago and now it's considered an extreme sport and sponsors are investing a lot of money. The more pilots that go to Burketown and fly the Morning Glory the more the knowledge base is expanded and the greater the success rate. In terms of hang gliding I guess it's like having climbed out in a thermal till you're on top off a huge cloud street, not under it. The cloud does actually run for as far as you can see east to west and there are secondary waves of similar size. It's all backlit from the rising sun. The sun reflects off the Albert river and the dark brown sandy colour of the salt flats provides a good contrast to the pure white of the cloud. The cloud bubbles and churns as it rolls backward under the invisible layer of surface air. This is what generates the lift in front of the wave. Looking down on this amazing phenomenon from the back seat of the trike I could think of only one thing better and that was to be in my harness but if another wave did not come through I figured I could live with this. I tapped Billo on the shoulder and yelled into the opening in his helmet, "Thanks, this alone is worth the price of admission". Billo nodded but he was concentrating on something else and as I looked down through the skirt of cloud that precedes the leading edge I knew what it was. The cloud was on the move. It was devouring the Albert river and the salt flats on either side. Billo stepped on the throttle and pointed the Cruze wing back to where Donny was waiting in the dolly. Donny knew all along that the wave was gonna come in. We flew over the car tow crew where Jason had landed. JOD was further out and walking his glider. We landed and I jumped out of the trike and hooked on the rope. Donny had already clipped on to his end of the rope and as I turned to see if he needed a hand he dropped into prone and waved to Billo and he was gone. Things got a little crazy after that. I did not know whether to keep filming or get in my harness. I ran for my harness then I turned back for the camera, then the harness, no the camera and then I saw Billo and Donny coming back under the wave. It wasn't nice and fluffy anymore. It was dark and there was a strong wind now. Billo had circled around just ahead of the cloud and as they passed over the top of me the cloud caught up with them and they disappeared. Then I heard Donny hooting over the radio; "This is awesome, it really does roll backwards! Thanks for the tow Billo". Billo turned his engine off and was flying the wave with Donny. I heard Billo talking back to Donny and then to my surprise I heard Al. With the damage to the prop on the Buzzard, Billo had sent Al back to the airstrip but being a veteran wave rider Al took off again when he saw the wave coming in. Billo warned Al not to turn the engine off as he would not get it started again. Then I had to laugh as Al got back on the radio and announced that he had switched his engine off and was soaring the wave. The Buzzard was the first trike to ever soar a morning glory back in 1997 and Al was also the pilot then. The three of them flew about 60km down the road towards Gregory Downs. Bill re-lit his rotax and climbed high to fly back over the secondary waves while Jason and I went to pick up Donny and Al. By mid week the mornings were getting dryer and although a few more waves had come through we were unable to catch them. One came through as clear air and another came through in the dark while we were still setting up. Apart from Donny, the rest of us were starting to worry that we might not get a wave. The reality of investing so much time and money and not getting to fly the wave was causing the mood around camp to change. This was compounded by the fact that the Buzzard's prop was still being repaired and Billo did not want to tow off the salt flats so the aero tow team had to find another tow strip. With fewer aero tow options Jason felt that some of the aero tow pilots should go on the car tow team. No one offered, including myself, so Jason re-rigged his tow bridal for car towing and Selmsey and I set up Christine (the car) for towing. That night around the BBQ the talk from the powered glider pilots was that it was very unlikely that there would be a wave tomorrow. JOD had aggravated an old shoulder injury on the long tow earlier in the week and, as fate would have it, asked that he not be woken in the morning but it was too late for Jason to change his rig. Al made the same request unless there was a sufficient amount of dew. As it was, JOD's itinerary had set aside Wednesday for a day trip to Lawn Hill Gorge so we went to sleep pretty much resigned to spending the next day sightseeing. We got up at 4:30am and there was not much dew but enough that we thought it was worth waking Al. The response that came back from behind his cabin door was "NOT TOWING TODAY!" This was a problem for me as my radio and camera were being charged inside. It was even more of a problem for Jason as Al had volunteered to be his driver. Before long Al was more awake and had joined us. On the salt flats, to our surprise, the dawn revealed another Morning Glory. Donny and I set-up and I jumped in the dolly as Billo arrived in the trike. We were much more hurried this time as we knew now how fast the wave could travel once it hit the land. I gave the signal; "Go, Go, Go" and I started hurtling toward the approaching cloud. The dolly jumped the track and started ploughing through the soft sand on the left. I pulled the bar in and held onto the dolly for a little longer than usual. I was waiting for the power of the XTC-582 to straighten me up. It did and I let go of the dolly rope running through my hands and climbed towards the cloud. Just as I considered the fact that I might actually be going to ride the wave the release on the trike malfunctioned and I watched the rope fall below me. I tried to fly back to the dolly but the rope started dragging on the ground. I barely had time to land after releasing it. I radioed where I had dropped the rope and quickly set up for a tailwind landing. By now Donny was in the dolly and hooked onto the spare rope. As he flew over me on tow behind Billo had to laugh at the irony. It could have been Jason. I had to carry my glider, still in my harness, a kilometre. The morning was starting to heat up and it was very humid with the wave approaching and I was out of condition. I would not have made it all the way but Greg was nearby checking the end of the car tow rope and ran the dolly the rest of the way down to me. It took all my energy to get in the dolly and turn it around. I drank nearly all my water. I didn't think I was going to recover. At one point I actually considered getting out of the dolly and giving it a miss. Billo's voice on the radio stopped me as he said; "Splint, you're only gonna get one go at this!". The trike came in over the top of me and I watched the rope fall onto the track between me and the fast approaching wave. The rope over-shot me and I ran the dolly down to it. I picked up the rope and there were three other weak-link/ring combinations on it but not the spring-clip I was used to. I yelled some obscenity. I knew how to thread a weak-link between two rings but I did not have the time so I pulled my release. My rings dropped to the ground and I attached my release to one of the other rings. I prayed that they would hold as I lay down and yelled; "Go! Go! Go!" into the mic. Same deal as before, the dolly jumped the track but I was so pumped now that I just enjoyed the rush as the trike straightened me up and I popped out of the dolly. It seemed to take forever to get to the cloud and when we were nearly there Billo started circling. I never asked him why but I believe it was that he did not want to take me over the river. If the release malfunctioned again I would be stranded. He was waiting for the wave to catch us. He came out of the last turn and we were at half the height of the cloud. Up to this point the tow had been perfect. In fact it was my best tow ever. I stayed level with the trike and there were no PIOs. Then, suddenly, I was all over the shop. I nearly locked out in each direction. I felt the weak-link would break for sure. It was the turbulence before the wave which I had been warned of. Billo's voice came over the radio and calmly said; "Good flying Splint ... stay on tow". I returned to level flight as we left the turbulence but then the vario started going off and I pulled the bar in thinking that I was getting out of shape again but when I sighted up the rope to the trike it was going up too. We were in lift and I thanked Billo for the tow and pulled the release. I WAS FLYING THE CLOUD! My dreams had come true. Here I was on the cloud and I could not believe it. Billo's voice came over the radio and said; "Way to go Splint!" as he flew in front of me with the tow rope stretched out behind. I got out in front of the cloud and did my first cautious 360. The beauty of the sun filtering through the secondary waves above the Albert river took my breath away. In some places on the cloud it was smooth and looked more like a mountain of snow while in others it looked like steam rising up and riding over a long mountain range on the ground below. It's quiet too and a comfortable temperature. As I completed my turn I noticed another glider. It was Selmsey. Greg who, before this trip, had never been a car tow driver, had towed Selmsey onto the wave. I have to be honest and say that I didn't think they could do it but there he was. I wanted to congratulate him but the car towers were on a different radio channel so I just did a "Yeee Harrr!!" in his direction. I was tempted to fly back onto the cloud, get closer and throw it around but I was in a Sting with the bar in just to keep up with the cloud as it was. Burketown is so remote that I did not want to take any chances. Also we'd all been told about Al's first flight on the wave. While getting that famous picture of PK, he drifted back and dropped into the cloud. His radio transmission went like this; "I'm in the cloud . . ." "Turbulence is moderate . . .", a loud bang was heard, "to SEVERE!!!" Al came out at the bottom of the cloud with only 400ft and lucky he was directly over the Burketown airstrip. The first thing you notice about flying on the wave is how smooth it is. I guess it's the lack of thermal activity. And there is no wind, just lifting air. It is truly serene. The movement of the cloud is hard to detect unless you look down on the leading edge and watch it relative to the ground. Relative to the cloud it's just like soaring a massive ridge of snow. You know how you get steam clouds rising up from the trees in the early morning in summer if there is a heavy dew or during the day if there has been a light shower? Well, that's the sort of cloud at the leading edge of the morning glory. The thing is that the ridge is invisible. It is misleading to say that the cloud moves. Yes, it rolls but it is not actually moving forward. Consider leaves on the surface of a pond after you've thrown a stone into the middle. The stone creates ripples that pass under the surface as indicated by the fact that the leaves move vertically and not horizontally. The same is true of the moisture laden air lying on the surface of the land as the solitary wave pushes under it. Like the leaves it rises up and the moisture it contains turns into cloud and as it falls the cloud disperses. So it's not the cloud that moves at 60km/h, it's the solitary wave beneath. When I say solitary wave I don't mean there is only one. In fact there were three more clouds behind the one that I was on. The term solitary stems from the fact that physicists describe the wave cloud as a soliton, a quantum or quasiparticle propagated as a traveling nondissipative wave that is neither preceded nor followed by another such disturbance. There are a number of theories put forth as to what causes this soliton to form. One is that massive amounts of air stack up near Cape York and then fall but this does not account for the Morning Glories that have come from the south. Another is that opposing seebreeze currents collide. Personally, I think Huey (Aussie weather god) gets bored in the early hours and throws the equivalent of a huge stone into the Gulf of Carpentaria and the ripples that result generate the Morning Glory. But I digress and with only 2500 words to play with there is precious few that I can use for that. Flying the Moring Glory was amazing. In the Sting I had to keep the bar well in to keep up with the cloud which, according to my GPS, was moving at 60km/hr. But since it was so smooth I was still able to relax and take it in. The cloud was ever-changing. Sometimes the surface was smooth and curved concentrically from front to back. Sometimes the surface developed mounds and peaks like meringue while in others it was more like cauliflower but everywhere it was white. The next thing you notice about the Morning Glory is the awesome landscape over which it passes. Thousands of kilometres of brown and scared land. A beautiful majestic river with man-eating crocodiles and a single road to follow. At times fingers of cloud stretched out from the Morning Glory along it's length and curved thousands of feet down to ground and you could visualise the enormous sheet of surface air that was being lifted by the wave. We played on the wave for about 45 minutes. Selmsey dropped into hang to get what I call his "Jesus shots", pictures of his sandal clad feet against the heavenly backdrop of the cloud. The three of us went crazy with our cameras in still and movie mode taking shots of each other and the cloud. By now there was a bit of traffic. Billo kept passing by, engine off and rope still attached and the powered gliders were doing laps up and down the cloud. Once the wave had gobbled up Burketown and the airstrip I kept close to the road. The wave started to break up to the east. I looked behind me and Selsmey was heading back towards the secondary to land into the wind in front of it. I flew on to the Doomagee intersection where I descended through the wispy remnants of the cloud. Donny matched his speed with the cloud and held it as the cloud dissipated. The clear air wave kept going and carried him another 30km down the road. I was picked up by the convoy of cars travelling to Lorn Hill Gorge. Shane was coming through latter to get gliders and harnesses. We stopped at Gregory Downs and celebrated with cans of bourbon and coke. It was only 10:30AM but Selmsey, Donny and I were so pleased with ourselves. Jason was driving and although he was happy for us he had had another weak link break and his frustration was beginning to show. To make matters worse he was now stuck in a car for hours with three pilots who did get the wave and they were going on and on about it. The last straw for Jase was when Selmsey swept his arm across the scenery to our right and pronounced; "This is beautiful! See that tree? That tree is beautiful". "Oh come on Selmsey!", Jason said; "That wasn't a tree. It was a crappy little catus thing. And that's the same bloody, dry scenery you've been looking at for weeks. And now it's beautiful!. Give me a break". We all cracked up and agreed to stop rubbing it in. Lorn Hill Gorge was pretty impressive and as Jason and I followed the rest of the party up the river in our canoe between beautiful towering red cliffs I thought to myself; "Does it get any better?" The next day was another missed chance for Jason. The wave came through before Billo had even left the strip. It was the last chance for JOD as he had to leave for Cairns later that day. On Friday I went out to the salt flats with Selmsey and Shane while Jason, Al and Donny went out to the road to aero tow. I could have jumped on the end of the aero tow line since Donny had already flown the wave twice but I wanted to get some footage of the wave from the ground and there was no way that Billo would get three hang gliders on the wave let alone two. I just hoped that he would get Jason on the wave and that Selmsey would get Shane on. The moon shone down us as a pre Morning Glory fog rolled in only six feet off the ground over where Shane was setting up his sting. Selmsey returned from checking the tow rope and as the first indigo coloured light of the sunrise appeared we could see the shape of the Morning Glory. Shane got in his harness and turned his sting around to face away from the cloud as Selmsey drove off to the end of the rope. The cloud was getting closer and Selmsey's voice came over the radio; "Get in the air!" Shane locked on his radio and called; "Go! Go! Go!" over the radio and I followed him through the lens as he turned into a speck in the sky above Burketown. I have my radio in my back pocket and had taped my wireless microphone to it. Shane's instructions to Selmsey were a mixture of excitement and nervousness and made for good commentary. When Shane reached the end of the rope at about 1700ft he signalled Selmsey to do a big 180 degree turn which brought him back around to face the cloud which was now backlight by a magnificent orange sunrise. Shane commented at how stunning it was and how he thought he might actually get to ride this wave. Billo was the first pilot to tow up to a Morning Glory. In his words it was a "Monster" but as he will admit the towing technique in those days was very hit and miss and he was unsuccessful. In those days they kept towing away from the wave until it caught up with them but Selmsey's technique seemed to be proving more successful. I paned the camera around and zoomed back to take it the sun rising under the cloud and as I did the white turbo subaru ploughed past. It was throwing up a wake of muddy sand the sides were completely brown. As the tow gauge on the back came into view I followed the rope back up towards Shane as he headed towards the cloud. He was not locked on any more and I could hear Selmsey yelling; "Mud! Shane? I've got mud coming!" Shane replied with; "Left. Just go left and you'll be able to go forever!". Selmsey had to slow down and the rope went slack. Shane yelled; "The rope's gone slack. Harder Selmsey, the rope's as slack as. Come on Selmsey, I don't want to break a weak-link now!" Selmsey planted his foot and launched himself over several large sand hills. The rope came good and as I zoomed back from Shane the cloud began to fill the frame until Shane was just a speck. Russ White flew into the frame in his Grob just under Shane on his way along the cloud and Shane turned right. Shane's voice came over the radio; "I've released! I'm on it! *&@%in Hell, I'm on the wave!". By now I was on full wide angle and the wave filled the frame. I lifted my head away from the camera and looked up to see the wave towering above me as it blocked out the sun. The wind blew and I held onto the tripod. The sun appeared again as the cloud passed over and the wind subsided and Shane's voice cackled over the radio as he laughed in amazement. Unbeknownst to us Billo was busy ferrying pilots onto the cloud. Jason was first with Billo's followed by Al and finally Donny. Donny actually left the dolly as the wave passed overhead. His on-board camera's footage is probably the most downloaded hang gliding footage on the internet at the moment. Billo and Donny turned under the wave and the Billo towed Donny through the leading edge of the cloud. Amazing flying from both of them. Selmsey came and picked me up and we chased the wave until we over took it. When the four hang gliders landed in a paddock by the side of the dirt road and a road train rattled through the bull dust under the secondary and tertiary wave clouds overhead we congratulated each other with hand shakes and hugs. The reality of what we had achieved started to dawn on us. Shane was the last of us to get a fly on the wave but he was only the tenth hang glider in history to soar the Morning Glory. On behalf of the Glory Boys of 2005 I would like to thank a few people. First, Russ White and Rob Thomson who were the first pilots to fly the Morning Glory. To CMac whose memory inspired this trip. To Al for towing and driving and going to the back of the queue in order that us newcomers got first crack at the wave. To my wife a children for supporting my dream of flying the Morning Glory and finally to Billo for his never ending endeavours to see the reputation of hang gliding lifted as high as possible.